Tastings: Wines to get you started
January 21, 2007
We asked our local experts to recommend a mixed case that would be great for a starter
wine cellar. Here are their suggestions:
Chris Rowley, sommelier, Aroma Thyme Bistro:
"Remember, what may seem expensive now, at say $35 to $50 a bottle, will seem laughably
cheap when you start drinking these wines in 10 years' time."
For aging 5-6 years, try Zinfandel Pagani Ranch 2003. It costs approximately $35.
For at least 10-year cellaring, the choices quickly narrow down to the higher end
wines from California's cabernet vineyards and Bordeaux, in particular the Medoc, where once again cabernet sauvignon is the
principal grape. "The problem with California's great cabernets is that they are usually hard to obtain, and they are often
very expensive. So, Bordeaux it is," Crowley says.
For good value, look at names such as Chateau Leoville-Barton, Gruaud-Larose, Lagrange,
Lynch Bages, Calon-Segur, Beycheville and Montrose.
He notes that Bordeaux has had two stellar vintages — 2000 and 2005 —
both of which will be pricey. But 2001, 2002 and 2003 were also excellent, so look there for good deals.
Michael Taiani, owner, winesbytheglass.net:
X Winery's "Red X." "Ready now or hold up to four years," Taiani suggests. It costs
approximately $14.
Penfold's Bin 389 Cabernet/Shiraz blend. "A reputable Australian wine sought by collectors,"
Taiani says. "Very rich, but needs years to soften the wine's tannins." Age two-eight years, he says. It costs approximately
$30.
Chateau Rieussec 2004 or 2005 Sauternes. "Said to be second-best sauternes next to
D'quem, which is much more costly, Taiani says. "This wine turns from a bright yellow to liquid gold over time." Age 6-10
years. It costs approximately $65.
Tim Free, wine consultant, Mid-Valley Wines and Liquors:
Altos de la Hoya Monastrell 2004 (Spain-Jumilla). "This is delicious, and drinks
well now. It is full-bodied and has nicely-integrated oak flavors," says Free. "Definitely winter-weight, and although not
complex, it has the feel of a much more expensive wine." It costs approximately $10.99.
Varaschin "Arde" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (Italy-Veneto). "If you're a cabernet lover,
this is not to be missed," Free says. "It has the backbone of fine tannins to allow it to age for 5-10 years, and can be enjoyed
now with food." It costs approximately $13.99.
Chateau Lamarque Haut-Medoc 2000 (France-Bordeaux). "This wine has all the hallmarks
of top red bordeaux except the price," Free says "It has power and flavor complexity that comes from a cabernet-heavy blend
(there's also some merlot and petit verdot involved). Robert Parker described it as 'astonishingly long-lasting' (long aftertaste)
and says it's the best vintage of Chateau Lamarque that he has tasted. We think it will still be going strong in 10 years,
at which point most of the tannins will have softened and the flavors will have become even more complex and profound." It
costs approximately $28.99.
John-Louis Kronfeld of Star Wines and Liquors:
For cabernet sauvignon, Karl Lawrence, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2003. "Big,
firm tannins in this wine will melt away as it hits its fifth year after vintage," Kronfeld says "Ideal drinking, I suspect,
will be 2012-15." It costs approximately $59.99.
Hardin, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2004. "Lots of fruit and noticeable oak
fruit tannins that will subside with time, though the structure indicates that this will drink optimally in its youth." It
costs approximately $28.99.
Chateau La Vieille Cure, Fronsac, 2003. "After tasting this wine this weekend, I
realized that this is affordable bordeaux that will drink wonderfully through 2015." It costs approximately $29.99.
"I have found lots of great California pinot noir, but Oregon pinot and French red
burgundy (100 percent pinot noir) are more limited and harder to come by, so I grab them when available," Kronfeld says.
Penner Ash, Willamette Valley, Pinot Noir, 2005. "A real blockbuster wine that often
has such serious extraction that it needs time for the acidity to show through the intense fruit." It costs approximately
$49.99.
Vincent Dancer, Pommard, Les Perrieres, 2003. "A very classic burgundy that shows
more one-dimensional fruit in its youth but gets more complex as it ages." It costs approximately $59.99.
For Italians, Kronfeld likes:
Camigliano, Brunello Di Montalcino, 2001. "This brooding dense brunello shows lots
of oak now, but my experience with past vintages indicates that it will best at 8-10 years." It costs approximately $49.99.
La Spinetta, Ca' Di Pian Barbera D'asti, 2004. "This wine has an unusually full body
for the region. This may age quickly after one year in bottle, but it would benefit from some age." It costs approximately
$19.99.
For alternative varieties, Kronfeld like syrah-based wines, California zins and shiraz.
Chase Family, Zinfandel 100th Harvest 2004. "Zins are always a crapshoot in aging
— sometimes they're awesome, sometimes they're not. One can only wait and see." Drink by 2010. It costs approximately
$44.99.
Glaetzer wines, The Bishop, Shiraz 2002. "This monstrous shiraz shows lots of fruit
and tannin that will undoubtedly soften though maintain the wine's robust character." It costs approximately $39.99.
Domaine, Vieux Lazerat, Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, 2004. "Polished with notes mineral
now. I suspect that some time in bottle will reveal much more seductive red fruit aromas intertwined with earth and a silky
supple texture." It costs approximately $25.99.