Tastings: There's more to celebrating than champagne

This is champagne's season, and come New Year's a few hundred million corks will pop across the globe. It is the drink of celebration, abundance and abandon.

But for some, champagne is less about drinking stars and more about getting an instant headache. Others simply don't like the stuff.

But those in the anti-champagne crowd needn't be left with an empty glass when it comes time to toasting 2007. There are plenty of festive alternatives.

There are many reasons why people dislike champagne, says Tim Free, wine consultant at Mid Valley Wines and Liquor.

"(Some) don't like the high acidity of champagne, (which is) a natural consequence of growing grapes in a very northerly location, and Champagne (the place) is the second most northerly in Europe.

"(Others) don't care for dry wines, and certainly the sweeter styles of champagne — demisec and doux — are harder to find."

Free's recommendations include a solution for each dilemma.

For a bubbly that's less acidic, Free suggests cava, Spain's sparkling wine made via the traditional method, like champagne.

"These are equally frothy and festive," he says. "They are also less expensive, with prices starting below $10, and most coming in below $25, just about the bottom of the price range of true champagne."

The Mid Valley crew's picks include Marques de Monistrol Brut Cava Non-Vintage ($9.99) and the 1+1=3 Brut Cava Non-Vintage ($14.99), which, says Free, offers, "a bit more body and fruit."

Prosecco, too, is lower in acid, Free notes.

"They come from northeastern Italy and emphasize fruit flavors without the high acidity of champagne," Free says. "Our value favorites include Varaschin Prosecco Rosé Brut NV ($12.99) — which contains about 15 percent moscato rosa to create the pink color — and Mionetto Prosecco Brut NV ($7.99 until the end of the year)."

For those who find champagne too dry, Free suggests a semi-seco cava such as Maset del Lleo Cava Semi-Seco NV ($10.99) or a Moscato d'Asti, made from Moscato grapes and vinified slightly sweet, such as the 2005 Cascina Castlet Moscato d'Asti ($16.99).

"The Moscato d'Asti wines are fairly sweet and also typically low in acid, which makes them seem even sweeter," Free explains. "The semiseco cavas are less sweet, but still not austerely dry like most champagnes."

Tom Settino of Vino 100 leads champagne shunners to the prosecco aisle.

"(Prosecco is) generally softer and more fruity than a champagne," says Settino.

One of his favorites is Terra Serena (about $25), "a sparkler with a nice soft fruit flavor with a dry finish."

For those who simply dislike bubbles, Settino suggests dessert wine such as Trentadue chocolate port ($25). "It's an explosion of chocolate and cherries with a nice long finish," says Settino. "It's a memorable and delicious wine."

Wine consultant Mike Taiani of winesbytheglass.net says that "sometimes the dryness of brut sparkling wines can be hard on the palate. So, for a remedy, I look to the fizzy wines from Asti and Acqui in Italy's northern region. They're awesome — delicate, mildly sweet — with just enough spritz."

Taiani's picks include Saracco Moscato d'Asti (about $15); Mionetto Moscato (about $14); Marenco's Soprano Moscato d'Asti or PinetoBrachetto d' Acqui (both under about $20), and Banfi's Rosa Regale Brachetto d'Acqui (about $20).

Marcus Guiliano, the chef and owner at Aroma Thyme Bistro, says there are champagne alternatives that even champagne fans will enjoy.

Guiliano's first suggestion is sparkling shiraz. "We get great reviews from the Peter Rumball Sparkling Shiraz (about $21-$25)," he says. "The grapes are from the Coonawarra region of South Australia. This unique sparkling wine has the full shiraz components, (with) full fruit and a long finish."

For those seeking a sweeter sparkler, Guiliano recommends "a New York state gem."

Glenora Peach Spumante (about $15), he says, is a Finger Lakes wine infused with peach and 4.5 percent residual sugar.

For those who don't want any alcohol, Guiliano notes that nonalcoholic sparkling apple ciders are a terrific alternative. Many, he says, are produced here in the Northeast.

John-Louis Kronfeld of Star Wines and Liquors is recommending eggnog as the perfect holiday punch.

"But I like to kick it up with a little something," he says. "I like using something like a good but reasonable cognac, such as the Ragnaud Sabourin Cognac, Premier Cru No. 6. It is good by itself, with lots of potpourrilike aromatics of orange peel, cinnamon, notes of peach and rose hips to it, with a mellow black tea quality."

Kronfeld adds that this cognac is aged in casks for six, 10, 20 and 35 years. The 6-year-old, he says, is "a perfect addition to holiday eggnog" at $19.99.

Each week, we ask wine professionals for advice on the wines featured in this column. You don't need to own a shop to join the conversation. Wine lovers are welcome. Please e-mail Lisa Ramirez at Lmjramirez@hotmail.com.