Tastings: Lift your spirits and warm up

Have no doubt. The weather outside will, very soon, be frightful. And while a fire is effective, the perfect drink can chase a winter chill in a way that's truly delightful.

We asked our local experts to share their favorite antidotes to a cold night, and whether you seek a grown-up hot chocolate or a very sophisticated sipper, they have the answer.

"When the temperature dips below freezing, there is nothing more gratifying and synonymous to winter than ice wines," says Michael Taiani of winesbytheglass.net. "Full and luscious, with enough sweetness to satisfy and warm your palate, they're made from frozen grapes harvested off the vines at this time of year."

Some of Taiani's favorites include Jackson-Triggs Ice Riesling, vidal, cabernet franc or gerwurtztraminer; Wagner Ice Riesling or Vidal; and Brotherhood Eiswein Riesling. Expect to pay upward of $20 for these.

Bill and Debbie Iurato of Peck's Wine and Spirits reach for this classic favorite: good hot chocolate with a dash of peppermint Schnapps.

"Top with whipped cream or marshmallows and enjoy," says Debbie.

The Iuratos also enjoy a glass of port.

"Because of their intense flavor and slightly higher alcohol content, usually around 20 percent, they have a wonderful warming effect," says Debbie. "There are lots of choices, ranging from vintage, single-vineyard vintage, late-bottled vintage, ruby/character and tawny. We are currently enjoying the Ferreira Dona Antonia Reserva Porto ($21). It has a beautiful red color with tawny shades, which shows its slow maturation in wood. Rich with hints of very ripe fruit, it's full-bodied, well-balanced and has a full-mouth finish."

John Louis Kronfeld of Star Wines and Liquors also recommends port.

"Our favorite styles are the vintage or late-bottle vintage. These intense red wines have sweetness and a little bump in alcohol. The sweetness is a treat, and the alcohol warms the soul," Kronfeld says.

He notes that while the styles can be pricey, the late-bottle vintages are great values.

Favorites at Star, says Kronfeld, include the 2000 Taylor Fladgate L.B.V. ($21.99).

"Fruity and exuberant, this wine is loaded with youthful aromatics of grape, boysenberry, black fruit and licorice. Bright and lively on the palate, it shows lots of red fruit and grapey undertones," he says.

Kronfeld also suggests the 2003 Fonseca, Vintage Port ($99.99).

"This young port is a 'bruiser,' so to speak, with intense aromas of raisin and road tar," he says. "This intense wine has lots of concentration and changes dramatically as you swirl it. Notes of minerals subside and vanilla undertones come out. A chewy mouth-feel lingers as the sweetness balances the youthful tannins. A treat now but also shows the potential for a long, long future."

Marcus Guiliano, the chef and owner of Aroma Thyme Bistro, says cognac is a favorite winter drink among his clientele.

"Our favorite at Aroma Thyme is Kelt Tour du Monde, which outsells all of our other cognacs combined, 20 to 1," Guiliano says.

He adds that Kelt is the only cognac still matured on the ocean.

Centuries ago, he explains, it was discovered that cognac shipped across the globe in oak barrels improved dramatically during the long sea voyage.

"The rolling sea, temperature variations, the frequent air pressure and weather changes, all combined to round off the cognac in an elegant way," he says. "Kelt takes this process even further. The cognac is aged at the distillery, then sent around the world on a three-month ocean voyage. This is where this cognac develops its intensity and smoothness. Imagine the constant waves of the ocean — the cognac is always moving and splashing inside the oak barrel. (Then) the cognac is brought back to the distillery and bottled."

Jon Newmark, a wine representative with Elmira Distributing Co., recommends Chaucer's Mead (about $11-$15), which comes with mulling spices.

"Mead is honey wine, and Chaucer's is exceptional because it is pure honey wine, not grape wine flavored with honey," he says. "Rich and delicious chilled, it takes on a completely different character when heated with the spice bag that comes attached to every bottle. Just pour the bottle into a saucepan and warm it with the spice bag floating right in the wine. Try that after a brisk walk or playing in the snow with your kids."

One final hint from Newmark: "Give (the kids) hot chocolate so they won't be jealous!"

Each week, we ask wine professionals for advice on the wines featured in this column. You don't need to own a shop to join the conversation. Wine lovers are welcome. Please e-mail Lisa Ramirez at Lmjramirez@hotmail.com.